Machine for making dress-binding.



(No Model.)

Patented Nov. 7, I899. T. E. PERKINS.

MACHINE FOR'MAKING nmzss BINDING.

(Application filed Mar. 6, 1897.)

2 Sheat-s$haet m: Noam: PET

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No. 636,693. Patented Nov. 7, I899. T. E. PERKINS. MACHINE FOR MAKINGDRE SS BINDING.

(Application filed Mar. 6, 1 897.)

2 Sheets-Sheet 2 {No Model.)

LIIJIII THE norms PETERS 00.. mom'uwou waswuprou. 0.1:

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

THOMAS ECKERSLEY PERKINS, OF MANCHESTER, ENGLAND.

MACHINE FOR MAKING DRESS-BINDING.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Fatent No. 636,693, dated November'7, 1899.

Application filed MarchB, 1897.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THOMAS ECKERSLEY PERKINS, a subject of the Queen ofGreat Britain and Ireland, residing at Manchester, in the county ofLancaster, England, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inMachines for Making Dress-Binding, (for which Letters Patent have beenobtained in Great Britain, No. 7,291, dated April4, 1896;) and I dohereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact descriptionof the invention, which will enable others skilled in the art to whichit appertains to make and use the same.

My said invention relates to an improved machine for making dressbindings or trimmings; and it consists in improvements in the structureof the sewing-machine whereby the chenille-reel may be mountedconcentrically in relation to the needleand thread, means for revolvingthe reel in a horizontal plane, and means for holding and guiding thechenille adjacent to the point of the needle, and generally to variousdetails of construction whereby a machine may be constructed for sewingchenille to the braid.

To render myinvention well understood, I will now proceed moreparticularly to describe the same, reference being had to the annexedtwo sheets of illustrative drawings.

To give a correct description of the trim ming to the manufacture ofwhich my machine is intended, I will in the first place refer to Figure1, which is a perspective view of a piece of skirt-trimming consistingof a strip of woolen braid a, having stitched to it a length ofchenille'b. Fig. 2 shows the trimming in section and as applied to thefoot 0 of a skirt, the braid being folded together and stitched to theskirt, so as to let the chenille edge project beyond the foot of theskirt. As before stated, the object of my invention is to stitch thechenille b or its substitute to the braid by a lock-stitch which willnot come loose or unravel if out or disconnected. The apparatus by whichI effect this lock-stitching of the chenille to the braid is illustratedin Figs. 3 to 6. Fig. 3 is a side View of the front of the arm of mymachine. Fig. 4 is a front view at right angles to Fig. 3; Fig. 4 aperspective View illustrating particularly the coiling of the chenillearound the thread seria No. 626,254. (No model.)

during the operation of applying the same to the braid; Fig. 4", anenlarged sectional view through the braid andchenille. Fig. 5 is asection of the hollow sleeve through which the thread is led. Fig. 6shows a modified form of presser-plate; Fig. 6, a section on theline A Bof Fig. 6.

In all of the above views corresponding letters of reference indicatelike parts.

I use a needle d, working in conjunction with any ordinary revolving orreciprocating shuttle e, the thread f being led to the needle from areel. (Not appearing in the drawings.) The needle-bar g, with the needlecl, is worked in the ordinary manner, and surrounding the needle-bar isa hollow sleeve h. (Shown in section in Fig. 5.) The sleeve h projectsdownward from a bracket t, which is screwed by a screwj to the foot ofthe needle-bar box. The sleeve It serves as a bearing to carry arevoluble bevel-wheel and boss It, which is kept on the sleeve by acollar 1, secured by screws to the foot of the sleeve.

To the wheel-boss It I secure a band Z, to which is attached an arm Zwhich'carries a reel m, containing chenille-cord coiled on. Thebevel-wheel k gears with a similar wheel at on a short shaft 91., whichterminates in a wheel n gearing with another wheel 0 on a counter-shaft0, which is driven by wheels 0 0 from the main shaft of the machine. Theshafts n and 0 are supported by a bracket p, secured to the arm of themachine. In the example illustrated the gearing is so proportioned as tocause the wheel and boss is, with the supported chenille-reel m, torevolve once around the needle for each up-and-down movement of thesame.

In addition to the reel the boss carries a guide q, with an eye at thefoot, through. which the chenille is led from the reel to the needle.The thread f is led through the usual tension and other appliances andpasses through the interior of the hollow sleeve hi. e., between theinterior of the sleeve and the needle-bar-to the eye in the foot of theneedle. The needle, in conjunction with the shuttle e, performs theusual and well-known lock-stitch. The thread, passing, as it does,through the sleeve, is free from any obstruction from the surroundingparts and enables the stitch to be properly performed. The

reel m, with the chenille, is carried around by the rotating boss 70,and the chenille as it enters beneath the presser-foot r is stitched tothe braid, which is fed by the usual feed, the braid, with the stitchedor coiled chenille, being preferably directed beneath the presser-footby a guiding-channel 00, with a slot .9 leading thereto. This ehannelocserves to protect the chenille from the pressure of the presser-foot 'rand is illustrated in dotted lines in the plan view, Fig. 6. As the workproceeds the portion of the thread f extending between the needle-eyeand the presserfoot 0 is served with a turn or coil of the chenille,which is being carried around it by the revolution of the wheel-boss 7c.Vhen the needle descends through the braid, the shuttle-thread beneathlocks the thread f, each lock-stitch being thus served with a turn ofthe chenille. The consequence is that in the complete article thecoiled-on chenille-cord lies along the braid andis secured thereto by alock-stitched thread-cord, so that even if the trimming is cut or thestitching broken at any point in the length the rest of the stitchingdoes not become disengaged and unraveled. It will be observed that thearm 0", carrying the presser-foot r, is bent so as to allow of therotation of the chenille-reel m around the needle-bar. The braid a isdirected to the presser-foot by means of a bent metal guide a, securedto the bed of the machine.

By altering the proportions of the indicated gearing, so as to speed upthe wheel-boss 70, more than one coil or turn of the chenille could bethrown around each stitch.

Instead of carrying the presser-foot r on a cranked or bent arm, asshown, I might disconnect it altogether from the needle-bar head andpivot it to the sole of the machine, as indicated in Fig. 6 of thedrawings. The presser would then consist of a plate 0, pivoted to thesole by a pivot 25 and held down by a spring u, so as to press on thematerial.

To raise and hold the presser-plate 7" clear of the work when required,I provide a lever-catch t, the head t" of which can be turned beneath apart of the presser-plate, as indicated in dotted lines, thereby raisingand upholding the presser-plate.

The lock-stitch sewing apparatus hereinbefore described might be usedsingly; but to expedite manufacture I prefer to arrange two, three, ormore machines successively along a bench, placing a batch of machinesunder the care of one attendant.

Although I have specially devised my improvements with reference to theproduction of the aforesaid dress binding or trimming, nevertheless themechanism hereinbefore referred to might be used for other purposes. Forexample, it might be used for lock-stitching cording upon fabrics or forlaying silk or other fibers, as bindings, ed gin gs, or embroidery, uponcloth.

Having now described my invention, what I claim as new therein, anddesire to secure by Letters Patent, is as follows:

In a lock-stitch sewing-machine for the purpose described thecombination with the arm, a needle-bar g, the fixed sleeve h surroundingsaid needle-bar with sufficient clearance to permit the passage of thetop thread between the two, the part iformed integrally with the sleeveand removably secured to said arm, the said sleeve being eylindricallyshaped, a flange at its upper end, the collar Z removably secured at itslower end, the boss surrounding said sleeve and kept in position betweenthe said collar Z and the said flange, the chenille-reel 'm, the arm Zconnected to said boss and supporting said reel to one side thereof, andmeans for driving said boss, substantially as set forth.

This specification signed and witnessed this 9th day of February, 1897.

THOMAS ECKERS LEY PERKINS.

Witnesses:

JOSHUA ENTWISLE, RICHARD IBBERSON.

